The HEMA Dilemma: Understanding Gel Polish Formulations

From HEMA to TPO, gel polish ingredients are getting more attention than ever. In this article, we break down what these ingredients really do, why low levels of HEMA still matter for performance, and how HEMA-FREE options fit into modern salon services. We’ll also clear up the confusion around TPO vs TPO-L and show how GelEase balances compliance, safety, and professional-quality results.


Unveiling ‘The H Word’ in Gel Polish Formulations

HEMA, which stands for 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, is an important ingredient found in many gel polish formulations. It plays a key role in ensuring proper adhesion to the natural nail, helping create a strong and durable bond between the gel and the nail plate. This bonding process is essential for the longevity of the manicure, reducing the risk of lifting or peeling.

HEMA also contributes to the flexibility of gel polish. By allowing the product to move with the natural nail, it helps prevent brittleness, cracking, and chipping, supporting a long-lasting, professional finish.

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The HEMA Headlines: Addressing Recent Concerns

In recent years, HEMA has received increased attention within the professional nail industry. While HEMA is a widely used and well-understood ingredient, it is recognised that it can cause sensitisation in a small number of individuals, and in rare cases, allergic reactions.

For professional-use products, controlled, low levels of HEMA are considered normal and help ensure consistent performance when products are applied correctly. As trained nail technicians, correct application, avoiding skin contact, proper curing, and safe removal procedures remain essential in minimising any potential risk.


Low HEMA for Performance: The GelEase Approach

Our GelEase formulation decisions are always guided by performance, safety, and professional reliability.

Our Large 15ml size GelEase Gel Polish and Builder Gel formulas contain a low level of HEMA, carefully balanced to support:

  • Strong adhesion to the natural nail
  • Long-lasting durability
  • Flexibility and resistance to lifting or chipping

By keeping HEMA levels low, these formulas deliver the strength and performance professionals expect, while remaining mindful of ingredient sensitivity considerations.

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Beyond HEMA: Understanding TPO, TPO-L & Modern Gel Chemistry

Alongside conversations around HEMA, there has also been growing discussion about TPO (Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide) – a photoinitiator previously used in some gel systems to trigger curing under UV/LED lamps.

Due to regulatory changes, TPO is now restricted for cosmetic use in the EU and is not used in any GelEase products.

It’s important to clarify that TPO and TPO-L are not the same substance, despite the similarity in name.

  • TPO (Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide)
    – Restricted/banned for cosmetic use in the EU
  • TPO-L (Ethyl Trimethylbenzoyl Phenylphosphinate)
    – A different molecule
    – Approved for cosmetic use in the EU
    – Widely recognised as a safer, next-generation alternative

All GelEase formulas are 100% TPO-free, using only EU-approved photoinitiators such as TPO-L or Hydroxycyclohexyl Phenyl Ketone to ensure safe, effective curing.


Providing Options in the Face of Stigma

With increasing awareness around ingredient safety, providing choice has become essential in today’s professional nail industry. Offering both low-HEMA and HEMA-FREE options allows salons to cater to a wider range of client needs and preferences, without compromising on quality or results.


GelEase HEMA FREE Mini’s: A Sensitivity-Focused Solution

For clients who prefer to avoid HEMA altogether, GelEase HEMA FREE Mini 8ml Gel Polish offers a dedicated alternative. This range removes HEMA entirely and uses modern, EU-compliant photoinitiators such as TPO-L (not TPO) to deliver reliable curing and wear.

This solution is ideal for clients with known sensitivities, or for salons wishing to expand their offering with a clearly defined HEMA-FREE option.

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The Freedom to Choose: GelEase’s Commitment

While our large size GelEase Gel Polish and Builder Gel contain low levels of HEMA to ensure durability and performance, we fully support salons that choose to offer HEMA-FREE services.

By providing both options, GelEase empowers professionals to make informed choices that suit their clientele, working style, and service menu without compromising on safety, compliance, or results.


Mini Marvels & a Smart Salon Investment

Our HEMA FREE Mini 8ml bottles offer a cost-effective way to expand colour choice, reduce waste, and trial shades before committing to full sizes.

The advanced formula applies and cures like the main GelEase range, with long-lasting wear and high shine.

Combining HEMA FREE and low-HEMA formulas gives salons flexibility while keeping clients first.

Article by Leigh-Ann Keddie

Leigh-Ann Keddie is our Marketing Coordinator & Content Writer at SalonServe Hair and Beauty Supplies Limited. She writes guides and practical resources on salon equipment, product selection, business growth and industry compliance for UK salon professionals. Her content helps independent salons make informed purchasing decisions and run profitable businesses.

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