Hair Colour Chart Explained: How to Understand the Numbers and Letters

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Why Hair Colour Charts Can Feel Confusing

If you’ve ever looked at a hair colour chart, you’ve probably wondered what all those numbers and letters mean. At first glance, it feels like a secret stylist code. The truth? It’s much simpler than it looks.

By the end of this guide, you’ll know exactly how to read any hair colour chart – whether you’re mixing a permanent shade, refreshing with a toner, or experimenting with semi-permanent colour.

And with SalonServe’s full range of Hair Colours, you’ll be able to put that knowledge into practice straight away.

What Do Hair Colour Numbers Actually Mean?

The numbering system is the foundation of every colour chart. Most professional brands use a scale from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde).

Here’s a quick breakdown:

• 1 –Black
• 3 – Dark Brown
• 5 – Light Brown
• 7 – Medium Blonde
• 10 – Platinum Blonde

👉 Example: If your client wants a soft mid brown, you’ll be looking around a Level 5.

How to Read the Letter / Decimal Point System in Hair Colour Codes

Numbers tell you the depth. Letters tell you the tone.

Here’s a cheat sheet:

👉 Example: A shade labelled 6N is a dark blonde with a natural tone.

Some hair colour brands use a number system after the decimal point to show the exact tone of the shade. The number before the decimal tells you the depth, while the number after the decimal explains the tone in more detail.

👉 Example: A shade labelled 7.2 is a medium blonde with a violet tone.

Permanent vs. Semi-Permanent vs. Toners

Different types of hair colours appear on charts – but they don’t all behave the same way.

• Permanent Colour
  Best for long-lasting results and grey coverage. Ideal when you want full colour change.
• Semi-Permanent Colour
  Great for refreshing faded colour, trying something new, or adding shine without commitment.
• Toners
  Essential for neutralising unwanted tones (e.g., cancelling yellow in blondes).

👉 Example: After bleaching to a Level 9 blonde, a toner like 9V (violet) will help cancel out brassiness.

Why Different Hair Brands Use Different Numbering Systems

Not every brand follows the exact same numbering. For example:

• Wella and Colorissimo may list their blondes up to 12.
• L’Oréal sometimes uses decimals like 7.1 (medium ash blonde).
• Revlon sticks closer to the classic 1–10 scale.

Don’t worry – once you understand the principles, you’ll recognise the pattern across all brands.

How To Use The Correct Developer/Peroxide

The developer (also called peroxide) works alongside your hair colour to either deposit colour or lift (lighten) natural hair. The “volume” refers to the strength of the developer, and choosing the right one is crucial for getting the result you want without damaging the hair.

Read our guide on Hair Bleach, Developer and Peroxide

10 Volume (10 vol) – Deposit only

• Adds colour but doesn’t lift the natural shade.
• Ideal for darkening hair or refreshing colour without changing the level.

20 Volume (20 vol) – Standard lift & grey coverage

• Can lift hair by 1–2 levels while depositing colour.
• Most commonly used for permanent colour and covering grey hair.

30 Volume (30 vol) – Stronger lift

• Lifts hair 2–3 levels.
• Use when you want to go lighter than your natural shade.
• Requires careful application, especially on darker or fragile hair.

40 Volume (40 vol) – High lift (use carefully)

• Lifts hair 3–4 levels.
• Typically used for very light blondes or high-lift colours.
• Can be harsh on hair, so usually paired with professional techniques and monitoring.

Tip: The choice of developer affects not just lift, but also coverage, intensity of tone, and how the colour interacts with the hair’s natural undertones. Always match the developer to your desired result and hair condition.

Professional Tips for Using Hair Colour Charts

Here are stylist-approved tips to make colour chart reading second nature:

• Start with the Natural Base – Always identify the client’s starting level before choosing.
  
• Think About Undertones – Browns expose red, blondes expose yellow. Choose tones that correct or enhance.
  
• Use the Chart with a Colour Wheel –
  Ash cancels warmth
  Gold adds brightness
  Neutral balances results
  
• Use the Correct Developer/Peroxide – this is crucial for getting the right results without damaging the hair.
  
• Check in Real Lighting – Always compare swatches in natural light and strand test when unsure.
  

Ready to Shop Professional Hair Colours?

Now that you know how to read a colour chart, you can shop with confidence. Explore SalonServe’s full range of:

• Permanent Hair Colours
• Semi-Permanent Hair Colours
• Toners

With the right chart knowledge and the right products, achieving the perfect shade is easier than ever.